Monday, April 12, 2021

Trekking to Balekilla at Malanggad Fort

Haji Malang Gad is a fort situated near the Matheran Hill range, in the Raigad district of Maharashtra. This fort is best known for trekking. It has an extraordinary, mesmerizing and beautiful view from the top of the fort. Malanggad fort is as near as 17km from Kalyan city.

This fort is divided into three distinct parts, namely, Pir Machi, Sone Machi, and Balekilla. Pir Machi is the lowest and the first part of the fort. The Haji Malang Dargah is famous after the Sufi Saint Hazrat Haji Malang Baba at this lowest plateau of the fort. 

Sone Machi is the plateau that is right above Pir Machi. This is the longest plateau of the fort. Sone Machi is suitable for any trekkers. 

Next comes the Balekilla, It is the highest part of Malanggad. Keep reading to know details about Balekilla.

 

Malanggad Fort

Trekking at Balekilla

Balekilla is the top-most part of the Malanggad fort. This level of the fort is inadvisable as it is very tough and risky to climb. It is preferable to return once you reach Sone Machi. The difficulty level at Balekilla is the toughest. 

 

Narrow paths on the way to Balekilla

After reaching Sone Machi, on the right is a way to move further to Balekilla and towards the left are a few remnants. Once you start moving towards Balekilla, you come across a 14-foot gap, which is connected with two pieces of pipes. Though it is very risky to cross it as you are exposed to a deep valley beneath, it’s worth visiting once. On the way, there are many narrow and tricky paths that we come across. 

 

14-foot gap connected with two pieces of pipes

A local villager used to provide escort by tying a rope and helping people cross the pipe. He charged people Rs. 20/- for his help to and fro. Only expert climbers and trekkers climb on their own with proper ropes and equipment. 

 

View from the 14-foot narrow route

Top View from Balekilla

At the top of the Balekilla is a rectangular open stone-built structure which is called as Devni or Bara Ansaar Pinnacle. At the top of Haji Malang Gad, are five reservoirs that are filled with water during the month of May-June. The water is supplied to the lower levels of the fort with the help of pipes. 

 

Bara Ansaar Pinnacle

Water Reservoirs

From Balekilla, we experience a beautiful view, where you can spot the Chanderi fort, Matheran range at the south, Kalyan and Ambernath city, Mahuli at the north, and Mumbai to the west. A part of the sea is also clearly visible from the top.

Top view from Malanggad Fort


Haji Malang Gad is a well-versed and self-defined fort that is defensive in itself. There are many Hindu temples and Haji Malang Dargah on the way to the Malanggad trek. Pir Machi and Sone Machi are dependent on natural aspects of the mountain. It is suggested that one should return from Sone Machi and end up their trek without moving towards Balekilla. Though Balekilla is very dangerous and not advisable to climb, it is sheer beauty and great satisfaction as the view from the top of the fort (Balekilla) is completely beyond awesome and astonishing. 


Friday, April 9, 2021

Visiting Sone Machi at Haji Malang Gad, Kalyan

Trekking is one of the most rejuvenating and adventurous outdoor activities. Maharashtra attracts many trek enthusiasts to its majestic forts and mountain ranges that offer an enthralling view. One such trek destination is Haji Malang Gad situated in Kalyan which is an amalgamation of divinity and adventure. Located at a distance of 52 km from Mumbai, 37 km from Thane, and 141 km from Pune, this fort is built on three levels – 2 plateaus and 1 citadel.

Haji Malang Gad from the base village

The famous Haji Malang Dargah, a holy shine of Sufi Saint Hazrat Haji Malang Baba, is located at the lowest plateau of the Malanggad mountain. Thousands of pilgrims from diverse faiths visit the dargah every year, especially during the Urus Festival celebrated in February.

However, the main attraction for trekkers is the next higher level popularly known as Sone Machi. Sone Machi is a long plateau that constitutes the lower part of the main fort. The highest level of the fort is the Balekilla (citadel). It is not advisable to visit Balekilla due to its extremely challenging terrain and lack of proper safety provision.

Trek till Sone Machi is suitable for both experienced and amateur trekkers. Here is everything you should know about Sone Machi of Malanggad.

Plateau of Sone Machi

Major Features and Structure of Sone Machi 

Sone Machi is a long plateau that is 25 meters wide and 250 meters long. There is a huge rock projection that is 70 feet wide and 100 feet tall. Its appearance resembles an elephant's trunk which is why it is possibly named Sone Machi. It forms the base of the fort with three intact bastions, one facing the east and the other two facing the west.

Rock projection at Sone Machi

The path consists of steep rock-cut steps that lead to the fort's main bastion or entry gates. Apart from a 'Chor Darwaja' (hidden gateway) that opens into a deep valley on the east, this is the only way to reach Malanggad.

Chor Darwaja at the Machi

Unlike other forts, which have several gates and watchtowers, this one only has one. Haji Malang is one of the few forts that depend entirely on natural features of the hill to protect itself, with no machicolations to fire at the enemy and no fortifications.

Haji Malang Gad bastion at the middle level

History of Sone Machi and the Battle of Malanggad

Malanggad fort was controlled by Pandurang Sambhaji Ketkar in the 17th century. After capturing Kalyan, the Britishers attacked the fort on 4th August 1780 and managed to capture just the Pir Machi where Haji Malang Dargah and Panch Pir Dargah are situated. Ketkars fought bravely and retreated the Sone Machi and decided to shift the base there. Britishers tried to attack the Sone Machi and seize the entire fort but failed due to firm resistance from Marathas and the tough structure of the fort. However, Maratha troops landed in a tough spot due to the limited stock of food.

Turn by turn, the contingents of Anandrao Dhulap, Karlekar, and Godbole attacked the British on Pir Machi, while Pandurang Ketkar from the Sone Machi above. The intense war continued till the Marathas managed to bring their cannon to Pir Machi and bombard the British army. Eventually, the British hold over the fort weakened and they lifted the seize of Malanggad. 

Descendants of the Ketkar family continue to look after the Malanggad fort and Haji Malang Dargah even today. To understand the detailed history of Maratha v/s British battle of Malanggad, read our blog "History of Maratha-British War at Haji Malanggad".

How to reach Sone Machi of Haji Malang Gad

The base village of Malanggad is located at a distance of 15 km from Kalyan. Buses and share autorickshaws are also available from Kalyan station. For further details read our blog "How to Reach Haji Malang Gad - A Trek Destination in Kalyan".

Upon reaching Malanggad it takes around 2-2.5 hours to reach the first level where Haji Malang Dargah is located. The road towards the Sone Machi is a narrow lane near the main dargah. Walk 100 meters backward from the dargah to find this lane that leads to the Malanggad fort.

Steps leading to Malanggad fort

What is the total estimated time to reach Sone Machi? 

Although the route towards Haji Malang Dargah is crowded by the pilgrims and can take up to 2 hours from the base village of Malanggad, only trek enthusiasts proceed their journey further towards Sone Machi. Hence the further route is less crowded. It consists of rock-cut steps and a steep climb. The total time taken from Pir Machi to Sone Machi is nearly 30 minutes which can vary depending on your trekking experience.

Darwaja on the way to the Machi


Level of difficulty of Sone Machi Trek

Trek to Sone Machi of Haji Malang Gad can be rated as medium difficult. Experienced trekkers can easily climb the rock-cut steps. Beginners and amateur trekkers can find it a bit challenging, however they can reach the Sone Machi plateau conveniently using a stick for support or ropes for additional safety. Climbing the rocks and boulders is a thrilling experience altogether.

During monsoons, the steps become slippery. Hence one should avoid visiting Sone Machi during monsoons due to the risk involved.

Sone Machi during monsoon

Upon reaching Sone Machi, the captivating view of the valley and hills around makes the entire trek journey memorable. This makes it a perfect trek destination for both experienced and amateur trekkers that provides an idyllic and thrilling experience.

Thursday, April 8, 2021

Visit to Pir Machi at Malanggad Fort

The "Malanggad fort" is well known for trekking towards the top of the mountain and Haji Malang Dargah situated at level one which is known as Pir machi. It Is located in the hill range of the Matheran. The nearest city to the Malanggad fort is Kalyan city which is 17km away near Mumbai.

People visit the Malanggad fort to experience the adventure and visit the Haji Malang Dargah to worship. This Haji Malang Dargah is the famous shrine of Sufi Saint Hazrat Haji Malang Baba, which is situated at the lowest plateau of the fort. Every year people from different religions visit the dargah to pay their respect and many more visit the dargah in February to celebrate the "Urus Festival"


Malanggad Fort


Pir Machi

The lowest level of the mountain is the plateau where the 2500 ft. long and 1000 ft. broad dargah of Sufi Saint Hazrat Haji Malang Baba is situated. Also, at the end of the plateau, the Panch Pir (Panch Peer) lies which is named after the five pirs who followed the "Haji Malang Baba" to Malanggad fort. It is 45 to 60 mins away from the Haji Malang dargah. Further at the edge place called chasma is located where people visit to pray. People believe that the water emerging from the ground because the Haji Malang Baba’s horse tapped the ground. 

 

Haji Malang Dargah on Pir Machi


Battle of British and Marathas

The Malanggad fort was ruled by Pandurang Sambhaji Ketkar in the 17th century. The Britishers moved close in the month of August instead of May and July to avoid the heat and captured the lowest level of Malanggad, Panch Pir. Later, ketkars shifted their base to Sone Machi (Second level) they fought bravely with Britishers but in the end, they had a shortage of food supplies. Other families staying on the Pir Machi fought with the Britishers and ketkars on the Sonemachi. Marathas bought their cannon to Pir Machi and bombarded the British army. Heavy damage was caused to the Britishers on Pir Machi and taking the advantage of the situation Marathas decided to attack together on 18th September which resulted in the end of blockade by the British army. To Know more read our blog "History of Maratha-British War at Haji Malanggad"

 

Old British Painting of Malanggad


Trip to Pir Machi

Malanggad fort is located 17 Km from Kalyan Station. By road, it takes about 1.40 hours from Mumbai to reach Haji Malang Gad. There are buses and Auto-rickshaws available from the Kalyan Railway Station. From the base village, it takes 3 hours to reach the Pimachi and to visit the Haji Malang Dargah. There are more than 1500 steps till Pir Machi. At the end of the lowest level of Pir Machi, you can also visit the Paanch pir, the graves of five followers of Haji Malang Baba. On the way to the Pir Machi, you will also see few Hindu temples situated and dargahs called Pehli and Doosri Salami. To know more about Pehli and Doosri Salami read our blog "Haji Malang Dargah, A Holy Shrine of Haji Malang Baba"

 

Pehli Salami

Doosri Salami

Paanch Pir


The journey to the top of the mountain is a combination of adventure and religion. The journey to the first level of the fort is rated as medium difficulty. This trek will give you a beautiful view and adventure to remember.