Friday, April 9, 2021

Visiting Sone Machi at Haji Malang Gad, Kalyan

Trekking is one of the most rejuvenating and adventurous outdoor activities. Maharashtra attracts many trek enthusiasts to its majestic forts and mountain ranges that offer an enthralling view. One such trek destination is Haji Malang Gad situated in Kalyan which is an amalgamation of divinity and adventure. Located at a distance of 52 km from Mumbai, 37 km from Thane, and 141 km from Pune, this fort is built on three levels – 2 plateaus and 1 citadel.

Haji Malang Gad from the base village

The famous Haji Malang Dargah, a holy shine of Sufi Saint Hazrat Haji Malang Baba, is located at the lowest plateau of the Malanggad mountain. Thousands of pilgrims from diverse faiths visit the dargah every year, especially during the Urus Festival celebrated in February.

However, the main attraction for trekkers is the next higher level popularly known as Sone Machi. Sone Machi is a long plateau that constitutes the lower part of the main fort. The highest level of the fort is the Balekilla (citadel). It is not advisable to visit Balekilla due to its extremely challenging terrain and lack of proper safety provision.

Trek till Sone Machi is suitable for both experienced and amateur trekkers. Here is everything you should know about Sone Machi of Malanggad.

Plateau of Sone Machi

Major Features and Structure of Sone Machi 

Sone Machi is a long plateau that is 25 meters wide and 250 meters long. There is a huge rock projection that is 70 feet wide and 100 feet tall. Its appearance resembles an elephant's trunk which is why it is possibly named Sone Machi. It forms the base of the fort with three intact bastions, one facing the east and the other two facing the west.

Rock projection at Sone Machi

The path consists of steep rock-cut steps that lead to the fort's main bastion or entry gates. Apart from a 'Chor Darwaja' (hidden gateway) that opens into a deep valley on the east, this is the only way to reach Malanggad.

Chor Darwaja at the Machi

Unlike other forts, which have several gates and watchtowers, this one only has one. Haji Malang is one of the few forts that depend entirely on natural features of the hill to protect itself, with no machicolations to fire at the enemy and no fortifications.

Haji Malang Gad bastion at the middle level

History of Sone Machi and the Battle of Malanggad

Malanggad fort was controlled by Pandurang Sambhaji Ketkar in the 17th century. After capturing Kalyan, the Britishers attacked the fort on 4th August 1780 and managed to capture just the Pir Machi where Haji Malang Dargah and Panch Pir Dargah are situated. Ketkars fought bravely and retreated the Sone Machi and decided to shift the base there. Britishers tried to attack the Sone Machi and seize the entire fort but failed due to firm resistance from Marathas and the tough structure of the fort. However, Maratha troops landed in a tough spot due to the limited stock of food.

Turn by turn, the contingents of Anandrao Dhulap, Karlekar, and Godbole attacked the British on Pir Machi, while Pandurang Ketkar from the Sone Machi above. The intense war continued till the Marathas managed to bring their cannon to Pir Machi and bombard the British army. Eventually, the British hold over the fort weakened and they lifted the seize of Malanggad. 

Descendants of the Ketkar family continue to look after the Malanggad fort and Haji Malang Dargah even today. To understand the detailed history of Maratha v/s British battle of Malanggad, read our blog "History of Maratha-British War at Haji Malanggad".

How to reach Sone Machi of Haji Malang Gad

The base village of Malanggad is located at a distance of 15 km from Kalyan. Buses and share autorickshaws are also available from Kalyan station. For further details read our blog "How to Reach Haji Malang Gad - A Trek Destination in Kalyan".

Upon reaching Malanggad it takes around 2-2.5 hours to reach the first level where Haji Malang Dargah is located. The road towards the Sone Machi is a narrow lane near the main dargah. Walk 100 meters backward from the dargah to find this lane that leads to the Malanggad fort.

Steps leading to Malanggad fort

What is the total estimated time to reach Sone Machi? 

Although the route towards Haji Malang Dargah is crowded by the pilgrims and can take up to 2 hours from the base village of Malanggad, only trek enthusiasts proceed their journey further towards Sone Machi. Hence the further route is less crowded. It consists of rock-cut steps and a steep climb. The total time taken from Pir Machi to Sone Machi is nearly 30 minutes which can vary depending on your trekking experience.

Darwaja on the way to the Machi


Level of difficulty of Sone Machi Trek

Trek to Sone Machi of Haji Malang Gad can be rated as medium difficult. Experienced trekkers can easily climb the rock-cut steps. Beginners and amateur trekkers can find it a bit challenging, however they can reach the Sone Machi plateau conveniently using a stick for support or ropes for additional safety. Climbing the rocks and boulders is a thrilling experience altogether.

During monsoons, the steps become slippery. Hence one should avoid visiting Sone Machi during monsoons due to the risk involved.

Sone Machi during monsoon

Upon reaching Sone Machi, the captivating view of the valley and hills around makes the entire trek journey memorable. This makes it a perfect trek destination for both experienced and amateur trekkers that provides an idyllic and thrilling experience.